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Thursday, 11 July 2013

Zion

Zion Canyon IPA

The scale of the US is huge when compared to the UK. However, thankfully, Zion (our next destination) was a mere 5 hours away from the Moab desert region. Unexpected delays in the earlier desert portion of our trip meant that we had just a few days to enjoy Zion before heading to Las Vegas to firm up wedding plans and meet up with our families.

The day we arrived it was instantly apparent that the drop-in campsites within the park are extremely popular. People plan well for their trips and drive through the campsites early-doors to secure a spot. We were not early but somehow, managed to scrape one of the last two spots remaining, meaning we had the rest of the day to enjoy yet more desert sandstone.

Given the day was creeping on we sensibly picked a long route with an epic number of abseils (needed to circumnavigate the rope eating chimney that you ascend). The idea was to go as far as possible before calling it a day and returning to terra-firma. That plan failed once inside the chimney system where it was clear the only sensible means of retreat was ascent. Despite our taste for minor (sometimes major) epics we topped out the route and began abseiling in the light (a novelty). A rope snag in a chimney caused some mild stress with Nat leaving a brand new quickdraw at one of the now dimly lit ab stations. We returned back to the road in the pitch black having climbed 9 pitches followed by 7 abs (starting very late in the day) to narrowly catch the last shuttle bus back to the main parking lot.

Iron Messiah, Zion Canyon, UT

The next day we opted for the short mega-classic, 'the Headache' which follows cracks from splitter hands, to thin hands and finally fingers up three impeccable long pitches of heavily featured sandstone. It lived up to the hype and all of the previous crack climbing was starting to pay off.

At this point we'd intended to start looking towards longer walls such as Spaceshot, Moonlight buttress and Monkeyfinger etc. but there was a small matter of a wedding to attend to, one neither of us could really get away with missing. But, we'd be back to Zion, or so we hoped.
The Headache, Zion Canyon, UT
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Glossary

  • Ab - Short for abseil, sometimes referred to as rap which is short for rappel.
  • Aid Climbing - Progression using any means possible requiring placed gear at most point.
  • Back clean - To remove a piece of gear for use again later on.
  • Belay - The term given to any place to stop and 'belay' from. Also the technique of feeding the rope correctly to ensure the safety of the leader/second.
  • Biner - Short for Carabiner.
  • Cams - Active leader placed protection. Also known as Friends and other such brand names.
  • Clean - Aid climbing without the use of a hammer (pegs etc. can be hand placed only). The modern favoured way.
  • Daisy - A pocketed sling which can be shortened using a Fifi hook.
  • Daisy - A pocketed sling which can be shortened using a Fifi hook.
  • Etrier - See ladder.
  • Etrier - See ladder.
  • Fifi Hook - A hook, more efficient for shortening a daisy (but less secure) than a carabiner.
  • Fifi Hook - A hook, more efficient for shortening a daisy (but less secure) than a carabiner.
  • Fixed gear - In-situ protection that ranges from pitons/pegs placed by early ascentionists to active and passive pro left behind by other parties.
  • Free Climbing - Climbing using only the rock for progression, gear is used solely for protection.
  • French Free - Pulling on gear for progression whenever necessary/faster.
  • Grades - (5.6 / A0 / C1 / C1F etc.) See RH links.
  • Jummaring - AKA as 'Jugging', the ascension of a rope using mechanical means.
  • Jummaring - AKA as 'Jugging', the ascension of a rope using mechanical means.
  • Ladder - a type of etrier, a stitched set of steps.
  • Ladder - a type of etrier, a stitched set of steps.
  • Mungey - Dank, dirty and generally unpleasant.
  • Nuts - Passive leader placed protection consisting of a metal wedge on a swage of cable.
  • Pegs - Also known as pitons as well as specific names (RURP, Lost Arrow, Knifeblade etc.).
  • Pendulum - Used to gain horizontal distance by climbing up, lowering down and then swinging across before resuming ascent.
  • Pendulum - Used to gain horizontal distance by climbing up, lowering down and then swinging across before resuming ascent.
  • Pig - Slang name for a haul bag. It often lives up to the name.
  • Pitches - Sections of the climb between belays.
  • Plate - Short for 'belay' plate. Used for controlling the rope and abseiling.
  • Portaledge - A portable ledge, much like a tent, but for hanging off the side of the cliff.
  • Pro - Short for protection, referring to in-situ or leader placed.
  • Simul-climbing - Where both parties move together (simultaneously).
  • Skyhook - A metal hook used for 'hooking' on edges from small (talon) to large (meathook).
  • Skyhook - A metal hook used for 'hooking' on edges from small (talon) to large (meathook).
  • Solo - climbing by oneself, this does not necessarily mean ropeless unless termed "free-soloing".
  • Stance - Place to stop and belay from as indicated by the topo (route map).
  • Trad Climbing - Short for traditional climbing, where the leader must place his/her own protection.
  • Wires - See nuts.