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Tuesday, 17 December 2013

Lurking Fear: Round 2

Or was it (too hot)?

El Capitan

Having ditched everything except bear-bait at the base of the route we'd stumbled our way back down to the bridge. Erik (his ever cheery self) quickly informed us that we'd had terrible luck, the last day was scorching and far in excess of the temperatures we'd experienced only a few days earlier whilst sat gazing upwards.

We pondered this information whilst once again enjoying the chilled water of the Merced river, El Cap looming above (as ever).

A day or so more passed before it was decided that the indignity of walking back to the haul bags to simply fight them back to the valley floor was too much. Instead, we'd go up and re-fix (noting that we were idiots for NOT leaving the ropes fixed to P3) to get a feel for just how hot it really was. Yes, this is all sounding very familiar and very predictable.

Frustrations started showing through almost immediately and the playlist on my iPod had turned a distinct corner to music that can only be described as 'angry', yet we persisted. It certainly was hot but this time we made it to the base of the route with half of our water and promptly began re-fixing.

Things went to plan. In fact, given we both knew what was required (placements, ropework etc.) we made incredible time through the first three pitches and soon we were fixing our ropes back to the ground. We returned to the valley floor for a well earned rest, intent on eating our own bodyweight in pizza before we'd head up late one evening, bivi, then blast (all to beat the sun)!

Late evening, a few days later, we loaded the remainder of the water and all of the food (mostly pizza) into the smaller bags and started the oh-so-familiar walk for (hopefully) the final time. The light faded rapidly and we found ourself at the base of the route getting ready to sleep well after dark.

I don't know what caused it but for some reason I had the strong desire to check our ropes and bags were still OK, I didn't want any delays in the morning. What I saw left me destroyed; one empty gallon jug of water was hung from a limp branch. On it was a piece of finger tape reading "you've been beared, next time store your food properly - smiley bear face". I shouted down to Nat and she came to have a look herself. The anguish was palpable, ~50 litres of water had been ditched as a punishment for leaving our haul bags on the floor. WTF!

You are kidding me?

Nat cried and I was done (I spent a good while kicking the haul bag to make that point). The whole of Yosemite valley heard our frustrations.

A while passed before Nat (still in floods of tears) presented her plan, we'd load the food and water into one haul bag, jug and haul in the dark before descending to the valley floor for more water and knocking our start day back until the following day. This wasn't perfect, bad weather was heading into the valley and the effectiveness of our rest day was completely scrubbed (the haul bags would be a mess too), but it's better than being beaten by a Ranger, or over-zealous Yosemite-climber-type (and we really didn't have a choice with our flight date creeping up on us).

I jugged the first full rope length and began hauling. One thing I will say is that anger makes hauling fast (and therapeutic), I could even go 1:1.

We stumbled back to the bridge and happened upon a gathering of familiar, friendly faces a welcome end to the day.

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Glossary

  • Ab - Short for abseil, sometimes referred to as rap which is short for rappel.
  • Aid Climbing - Progression using any means possible requiring placed gear at most point.
  • Back clean - To remove a piece of gear for use again later on.
  • Belay - The term given to any place to stop and 'belay' from. Also the technique of feeding the rope correctly to ensure the safety of the leader/second.
  • Biner - Short for Carabiner.
  • Cams - Active leader placed protection. Also known as Friends and other such brand names.
  • Clean - Aid climbing without the use of a hammer (pegs etc. can be hand placed only). The modern favoured way.
  • Daisy - A pocketed sling which can be shortened using a Fifi hook.
  • Daisy - A pocketed sling which can be shortened using a Fifi hook.
  • Etrier - See ladder.
  • Etrier - See ladder.
  • Fifi Hook - A hook, more efficient for shortening a daisy (but less secure) than a carabiner.
  • Fifi Hook - A hook, more efficient for shortening a daisy (but less secure) than a carabiner.
  • Fixed gear - In-situ protection that ranges from pitons/pegs placed by early ascentionists to active and passive pro left behind by other parties.
  • Free Climbing - Climbing using only the rock for progression, gear is used solely for protection.
  • French Free - Pulling on gear for progression whenever necessary/faster.
  • Grades - (5.6 / A0 / C1 / C1F etc.) See RH links.
  • Jummaring - AKA as 'Jugging', the ascension of a rope using mechanical means.
  • Jummaring - AKA as 'Jugging', the ascension of a rope using mechanical means.
  • Ladder - a type of etrier, a stitched set of steps.
  • Ladder - a type of etrier, a stitched set of steps.
  • Mungey - Dank, dirty and generally unpleasant.
  • Nuts - Passive leader placed protection consisting of a metal wedge on a swage of cable.
  • Pegs - Also known as pitons as well as specific names (RURP, Lost Arrow, Knifeblade etc.).
  • Pendulum - Used to gain horizontal distance by climbing up, lowering down and then swinging across before resuming ascent.
  • Pendulum - Used to gain horizontal distance by climbing up, lowering down and then swinging across before resuming ascent.
  • Pig - Slang name for a haul bag. It often lives up to the name.
  • Pitches - Sections of the climb between belays.
  • Plate - Short for 'belay' plate. Used for controlling the rope and abseiling.
  • Portaledge - A portable ledge, much like a tent, but for hanging off the side of the cliff.
  • Pro - Short for protection, referring to in-situ or leader placed.
  • Simul-climbing - Where both parties move together (simultaneously).
  • Skyhook - A metal hook used for 'hooking' on edges from small (talon) to large (meathook).
  • Skyhook - A metal hook used for 'hooking' on edges from small (talon) to large (meathook).
  • Solo - climbing by oneself, this does not necessarily mean ropeless unless termed "free-soloing".
  • Stance - Place to stop and belay from as indicated by the topo (route map).
  • Trad Climbing - Short for traditional climbing, where the leader must place his/her own protection.
  • Wires - See nuts.